July/August 2008

By Lizzie McDonald

For Robert Gerstenecker, Executive Chef at Park 75 at the Four Seasons Atlanta, becoming a chef was as natural as the changing of the seasons. Raised on a farm in Canada, Chef Gerstenecker and his brothers were brought up with an understanding and admiration for the whole farm-to-table concept. “My mom is a fantastic cook. We grew up around food, around farming and the garden. It was a way of life, and our parents truly instilled in us a great respect for food culture,” he relates. Add the Easy Bake Oven, which he laughingly admits was a partial catalyst for his culinary calling at the early age of 5, and the rest is, as they say, history.

After briefly undertaking a police department internship, Chef Gerstenecker decided on culinary school and graduated with top honors from George Brown College. A 16-year veteran of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, he actually joined the Park 75 team back in 1998 as an executive sous chef when the restaurant was opening. He worked on developing the restaurant’s menu and was in that position until 2002. He has worked in Four Seasons kitchens in Toronto, New York, Palm Beach and Hong Kong. His most recent return to Atlanta, in September of 2004, was like “a dream come true,” according to the young chef. “I love Atlanta! It is perhaps one of my favorite cities and to be a part of the restaurant scene here is a dream come true for me.”

FARE FLAIR

While he’s made his way around the world with Four Seasons, Chef Gerstenecker says that his culinary style would most typically be defined as “classic,” but he adds that the global influence from his various posts do play their part in his day-to-day preparations. Consider a succulent salmon entrée with wasabi mashed potatoes, wok-fried vegetables and a coconut miso broth. Or a hot starter of seared Hudson Valley foie gras with Grand Marnier French toast, caramelized quince and truffle-maple syrup. At dinner, menu courses include a choice of savory fish dishes, various beef, lamb and duck presentations, and a simple, vegetarian dish (often fresh pasta). Everything is simple and fresh in its preparation, with just the right accouterment to highlight main flavors.

“Yes, this is a hotel,” he says, “but that doesn’t dictate that Park 75 has to be your typical hotel restaurant. We are always aware of the comfort of this venue for our guests. That extends to the flavors on the menu, the pricing structure, the ambiance of the room and the friendliness and professionalism of the staff. It’s this combination that keeps people coming back to us, not only for special occasions but also for a simple steak and salad on a Wednesday night.”

Chef Gerstenecker adds that about 50% of Saturday evening reservations are usually to celebrate a special occasion. They also have a good bit of group business-like wine dinners for various clubs and organizations around the Metro Atlanta area. According to Chef Gerstenecker, these dinners for small groups – no more than 20 or so guests – are good for revenue and raising patron awareness about Park 75. He and his staff have also been very successful with Chef’s Table dinners – actually served at a table in the midst of the kitchen’s hustle and bustle – as well as with a series of small cooking classes. Chef Gerstenecker also oversees a very successful wedding business in the hotel.

When talking about the general economy and state of business in the restaurant, Chef Gerstenecker allows that he and his team have approached things from a cautionary position. “The market has softened,” he says. “But our business has been strong. It’s interesting to consider a restaurant like Park 75 in a city where new restaurants are opening all the time. That certainly keeps us on our toes, but we offer something tried and true for our guests. We try to build on that [reputation] while keeping things fresh and innovative – but not too innovative.”

THE SCENE

Turning to the topic of Atlanta food and restaurant trends, Chef Gerstenecker segues into talk of his philosophy of sustainability and cooking with the best regional and seasonal ingredients. “Because of my background,” he says, “this type of cooking has always been of interest to me. I am pleased to see that more Americans and more Atlantans are aware of food as a topic.” He notes that his clientele have become more health conscious – especially business travelers. “Our guests don’t want heavy foods and rich sauces for every meal. We have even revamped the in-room dining menu to include more healthy alternatives.”

In terms of food cost, too, Chef Gerstenecker says that chefs should embrace the local/sustainable effort whenever possible. “Green and local go hand in hand. As a company, it saves money and it’s good for the community and for the environment.”

And as for the local restaurant scene, Chef Gerstenecker finds the one in Atlanta absolutely exciting. “I can remember when you could count the good restaurants here on one hand. Now, it’s a totally different situation, there are incredible little places popping up all over.” He mentions Holeman and Finch Public House and the hands-on approach Linton Hopkins takes in curing charcuterie and making everything from pickles and preserves to mustard, ketchup and all of his own breads. “People like Linton and Annie [Quatrano at Bacchanalia] who are willing to share their passion and risk that everyone may or may not ‘get it,’ they are the trailblazers in the new South. They have created a culture that will serve as a legacy to this city.”

Chef Gerstenecker then brings up the fact that so many upscale hotels are opening in the Atlanta area, too. “This is really exciting for me. It elevates everything we do here at Park 75. It brings everything ‘up’ – the guest experience, the staff performance, what we do in the kitchen – everything.” The chef then slips into his manager’s hat and expands the thought: “For us, it means that people looking to do interesting work in the culinary world will now consider Atlanta. We are getting intern applications from all over France. We get people from fabulous hotels that want to come and experience all Atlanta has to offer. That really speaks to what this city has become. And to think that we are a part of that, that I am a part of that, well, that makes me incredibly proud.”

This entry was posted on Tuesday, July 15th, 2008 at 2:29 pm and is filed under Profiles.