After working as a bartender for eight years, Eric Simpkins came to realize that he’d found a career and not just a job. So, he enrolled in the French Culinary Institute in New York to prepare for serious work. But a funny thing happened after graduation. Simpkins found he was able to put his training to use not just in a kitchen, but back behind the bar.
Restaurant Forum: What sets the bar at Trois apart?
Eric Simpkins: Our commitment to the cocktail and the fact that we treat cocktails as essentially another dish. We see cocktails as another dining component with recipes to be followed for consistency using all fresh, seasonal ingredients. You can expect a cocktail that’s high quality, freshly made, precisely made and consistently made every time you come to Trois. In addition, the bartenders making these cocktails and the servers serving them are educated and informed about spirits and cocktails, including the history of cocktails and American drinking, so it’s not just a product you’re getting, but informed service.
RF: What’s your favorite spirit to work with?
ES: Either gin or rye whiskey. They both have a lot of character and backbone to them. When you mix them, that character acts as a foundation to build flavors upon; they don’t get completely lost in the cocktail but give the drink a backbone and character. It’s like working with a good stock.
RF: With so many vodka brands out there, what considerations go into which ones to carry?
ES: I always look for clarity. While I do want it to be a smooth product, at the same time I don’t want it to be stripped of all of its flavor. I want to know that I’m drinking vodka, and it’s got to taste like vodka. You should taste some graininess or rye flavor when you drink it straight.
RF: What are the latest cocktail trends?
ES: I’ve been seeing a lot of infusions. People are infusing their own syrups. I’m also seeing more seasonality, especially on the West Coast. There’s a growing commitment to using fresh ingredients that you may get from a farmer’s market or directly from farmers themselves because restaurants are working directly with farmers a bit more. We’re also seeing more exotic ingredients imported, like yuzu, which is an exotic Asian citrus fruit juice. And the pomegranate is very popular.
RF: How does Atlanta’s cocktail scene compare to that of other cities that you’ve worked in or traveled to?
ES: I’d say it’s definitely keeping up. It’s growing at about the same rate as other smaller cities like Seattle. The only U.S. cities I can think of that really have something more are New York and San Francisco. We’ve definitely caught the “cocktail culture” bug, but it’s building a customer base to support that.
RF: What can restaurateurs do to draw and foster that base?
ES: Commit to quality and use fresh ingredients. Also, treat the cocktail as another component that needs to come out with consistent quality, that’s thought out and tested before it goes out. When customers get used to that sort of quality, hopefully they’ll stop settling for all this mass-produced sweet and sour swill. â–
By Charles Y. Hoff, Esq., and Michele Stumpe, Esq.
Restaurant and Hospitality Legal Team at Taylor, Busch, Slipakoff & Duma
So, you want to open a new restaurant and have an eye on a location where an existing restaurant is going out of business. You are thinking that all you need to do is buy the equipment in an asset purchase and arrange for the landlord to assign the remainder of the lease to you. Sounds simple? It may be, but unfortunately that’s not the norm. Many an unwary entrepreneur has been caught off guard by issues such as a prior owner’s tax liens, local laws that are inconsistent with their business model, premises restrictions and other pitfalls that can turn your dream into a nightmare. Property and/or back taxes owed by the previous owner can lead to complications that may result in your inability or difficulty in obtaining an alcohol license.
Once you think you’ve covered your bases with the Department of Revenue, you have a whole host of other issues that can arise with the local government. For example, some cities and counties will refuse to grant alcohol licenses to new owners of establishments that have a prior history of criminal activity or alcohol violations. It may not seem fair that the “sins” of the prior owner are thrust upon you, but the laws of successor liability and privilege licensing are alive and well in Georgia. Many of these scenarios can be avoided by exercising some due diligence prior to closing.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK!
Check to make sure your business concept is legal (you’d be surprised about the things you cannot do in various counties – like letting a customer bring in a special bottle of wine for their anniversary). Also, be aware that it may take upwards of three months to obtain a license for your new establishment under even the best of circumstances. So, it’s never too early to start the process. It can be arduous, including requirements such as obtaining driver’s histories, fingerprints and multiple meetings with various local governing bodies before you can get approved. In addition, the Department of Revenue has recently changed their procedures, renewing their interest in clearing the books of all outstanding tax issues.
If you are breathing a sigh of relief because the prior owner is willing to let you operate under their license for a period of time after the closing until you get approved, watch out. Many jurisdictions consider the existing license void upon the change of ownership. You might not get caught, but if you do, you could be looking at another year before you can even apply for another license. These are just a few of the issues that can arise in the wonderful world of alcohol licensing. The key is to become educated about the process and the potential hurdles before you sign on the dotted line.
Creating a buzz within the dining community is a top priority when opening a new restaurant. The Mansion on Peachtree recently demonstrated how partnering with a wine maker can generate excitement with the right crowd.
Neo Restaurant’s Chef Eric Chopin with Roland Biron, Director of Sales & Marketing for The Mansion on Peachtree.
The Mansion is a luxury property that invites intrigue naturally, but drawing attention to the hotel’s Neo Restaurant and re-introducing Atlanta to French Master Chef Eric Chopin helps deliver an extra bit of motivation to the pampered public. Chef Chopin was most recently with The Ritz Carlton in Buckhead.
Viña Ventisqueros’ Jaime Merino, Felipe Tosso, Facundo Porolli, and Ophelia Santos
Chef Chopin created a wonderful menu to pair with the wines. Along with introductions and discussion of each wine, restaurant and hotel staff was introduced to the guests. A couple of guest took sneak peaks at the rooms overhead, while most stayed contentedly in their seats soaking up the ambience, food and delicious wines.
A buzz can grow louder with well-crafted events. In this case, a new hotel, a new restaurant, and a new wine paired well to create a successful marketing event.
I like to think of a good wine list as being eclectic all year long, featuring wine from various obscure regions of the world. Following the seasons is a great way for a chef and sommelier to work together in creating a menu with wines that go well together.
As spring approaches, menus typically focus on vegetables and lighter fare. Selections of wines by the glass should follow and compliment the changes of food items.
Spring represents new beginnings with light to medium bodied white and red wines
Spring represents new beginnings with light to medium bodied white and red wines. The transition from winter must be smooth and gradual. The wine selections should include some of the richer wines from winter while introducing a lighter variety. Some white options are the slightly oaky Sauvignon Blancs from California, Viogniers from both Central California Coast and the Rhone Valley, great crisp Marsannes and Roussannes from France, Rieslings from Clare Valley in Australia, Chardonnays that are less “buttery” than those mostly found in the New World. Red wines should be slowly replaced by light Cabernet Francs, soft Merlots from the appellations surrounding St Emilion in Bordeaux, light Chiantis and the Nero d’Avolas from Italy (inspiring lively cuisine). A favorite is Crianza Tempranillos from Spain, the lightest style of Cabernet Sauvignon (look for Cru Bourgeois from the Medoc in Bordeaux, or light reds from Chile). South Africa provides great wines that suit perfectly with lighter styles of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon (think Kleine Zalze winery, very elegant).
When looking for a great Pinot Noir choose one from the South of Burgundy (fruitier than the North), Oregon or the lighter ones from Alsace or Germany. The Grenache in southern Rhone is a good alternative for a choice of medium bodied red for summer. In Spain, the Mencia (aka Cabernet Franc) in Galicia provides wines that are a little bit richer but still fresh and lively overall. A great Dolcetto from Piedmont also brings another level of taste with summer foods. I opt for an Italian Salice Salentino from Apulia, the Negro Amaro varietal with superb spiciness and great red berry fruits, that pairing so well with Mediterranean cuisine.
When fall appears, announcing colder weather and the beginning of third quarter festivities, one can take another look at what the spring wines had to offer and begin to introduce the red wines for winter.
Winter must feature rich and heavier styles of wines,
Winter must feature rich and heavier styles of wines, for obvious reasons, truffles, mushrooms, game meat and intense sauces. Most white wines will belong to the rich, oaky Chardonnays from all over the world, Gewurztraminers (from Alsace and New Zealand), Marsannes and Roussannes from the famous appellations in the Rhone valley, and the Central Coast. Rich Rieslings from Rheingau and Plalz in Germany and from heavier soils in Alsace (like the volcanic soil in Rangen). If opting for an Italian wine, select the Soave Superiore with the intense Garganega varietal. Pinot Gris from Alsace in the winter are a wonderful match with Foie Gras and poultry.
For the red wines, of course, let’s bring out the “Big Boys”: intense Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa at its best, Washington State best estates, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, left bank Classified Growths from the Medoc and Pessac Leognon, etc…). Shiraz from Australia and Syrah from the Rhone valley and Central Coast are a must. Another addition would be the old world Pinot Noir, north Burgundy (think Vosne Romanee, or a Gevrey Chambertin). Italy with the King of the Wines or Wines for the King, Barolo and its Nebbiolo grape, would do just fine too. Barbaresco is a good substitute and the Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico area or the Brunello region, especially the Riserva. A great Malbec from Argentina, a superb Tempranillo from the Rioja, Toro and Ribera del Duero, and even a rich Priorat will all please your winter palate.
Having four seasons keeps a fresh outlook on the palate. If you are still debating on what to select, Champagne is wonderful all year long. In the end, taste makes the best match, regardless of the recommendation. As the seasons change, challenge yourself to change your approach to wine, always making for an interesting afternoon or evening. Cheers!
Pennequin is a wine consultant specializing in building wine programs and conducting staff training for restaurants in Atlanta, New York and Los Angeles. For more information, hervepennequin24@aol.com.
How do you utilize a wine trainer to increase sales for your restaurant?
Your wine trainer should understand their students and their level of wine knowledge. The given message must also be simple, clear and easily remembered by the staff. Prior to training the staff, the wine trainer should determine some groundwork by examining the current activities of the restaurant and analyzing some basics; who are the restaurant patrons, are there more regular guests than transients, what is the type of cuisine served, what is the average price for food spent by the guest, what is the average price per wine served, is wine served more by the glass or by the bottle, is more white or red wine chosen by the guests?
Once the trainer understands these basics, it becomes very clear how to direct the training session. Based on the allocated time, the training must be compiled and aimed to review each key topic in an educational, informative yet fun way. A mindful trainer’s message should be entertaining and emulate the interest of all, with personal stories, experiences and anecdotes.
Training should start with a note of humor, followed by what interests the staff so as to include them in the session. The staff should be reminded what their restaurant is, what it represents, why they are working there and what “their” personal goal is – to make money. The trainer will bring confidence to the staff by giving them the tools to increase their check average, which in turn will increase their tips.
The next step of the session is to review the wines in the “By the Glass” program. A brief explanation of the region of origin and style of wine is given. Then two – three should be used, describing the taste of each wine. This should be followed by suggesting a dish from the menu to pair with the wine, or vice versa. A good trainer will get the description of each dish from the Chef in order to emphasize the elements that make the taste of the course adapt to the main elements in the wine.
After reviewing all wines by the glass and deciphering the list of wines that best suit each course, the trainer can review the bottle list and go over styles of regions before going through each wine’s specific taste characteristics.
If your restaurant has a wine steward, the trainer should explain how the wait staff should explain the guests chosen dish prior to the steward approaching the guest. When discussing wine with guests, the steward or server should then ask if the guest is looking for a white or a red wine, and whether the guest prefers a light or a richer wine. The answer to the latter should give an indication of desired concentration which most of the time will relate to the price of the wine. “Richer, concentrated” will lead one to an “oaky” wine that is higher in price than a non oak wine. After recognizing the guest’s taste, which should be respected at all times, the steward or wait staff can then make recommendations.
When suggesting wines, three wines of the same taste category should be introduced, starting with the lowest in price. Next, the server should introduce the most expensive wine followed by “the” wine the server originally hoped to sell. That wine should be priced in between the first and the second wine. Ninety percent of the time, the guest will chose the last wine for various reasons; he or she does not want the least expensive, nor does he wants the most expensive and the steward will guide him to his or her choice while allowing the guest to feel that he has made the choice. There are several “key” descriptive words used to sell wine which are very important and necessary. If there are only ladies at the table or if a lady chooses the wine, use key words such as “lovely, elegant, soft, smooth or sensual”. If only gentlemen, key words are more likely to be “rich, masculine, intense or full bodied”. Always try to read the guests personality so you can select the appropriate key words to sell. The wine trainer should stress the importance of keeping a positive attitude despite the guest’s final choice. A server may be tested at first and the more helpful they are, the more trust the guest will have over time. A good server can experience a guest giving them “carte blanche” once they have passed the guests’ test and earned their trust.
One final component is confidence. Confidence is as important to a server or wine steward as learning to listen and “hear” the guest. The employee may know more than the guest, but, in the end, the guest is always right (even when he is wrong)!
Anyone could be a good wine trainer or expert wine sales person. Knowledge is not everything, it takes years of experience to listen and speak with objectivity. A “great” trainer shares their passion and will generate passion in the staff too.
Cocktail crafting grows more competitive with each passing happy hour. To stay afloat in the specialty drink market, restaurateurs and bar staffs are going to new lengths. Some of Georgia’s beverage buffs met with Restaurant Forum to share their secrets for modern mixology.
What’s in a Name?
Do clever titles for liquid concoctions provide the ultimate icebreaker and convince customers to try them? For Gregg Smith, sommelier and bar manager at Silk restaurant in Midtown Atlanta, each cocktail has a story to tell. Smith has been with the restaurant since its opening in 2004 and immediately gained recognition for his innovative drinks. He also has a history of stirring up iconic inspiration when naming his cocktails.
Smith’s newest cocktail heroine is Bebel, named for Brazilian singer Bebel Gilberto whom he recently met when she was in town for a concert. The drink features Brazilian cacha�a, fresh strawberries, Martinique sugar cane syrup, grapefruit juice and a splash of ros� to add an effervescent sparkle. It’s the perfect balance between sweet and sour and just as smooth as Gilberto’s bossa nova sounds.
Another is Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle of Grand Marnier fame and owner of Chilean winery Casa Lapostolle. “Alexandra is an inspiration to every businessperson in the world,” says Smith. “She is a vivacious and unstoppable woman dedicated to quality control. The Madame Alexandra cocktail is an homage to her.” The ultimate liquid compliment, this cocktail combines Grey Goose Le Citron with Grand Marnier and Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc and is garnished with frozen white grapes.
The Mango Picchu, a clever take on the ancient Incan ruin located in Peru, was recently introduced by Smith. The base is made with a pureed egg mixture known as leche de monja (“nun’s milk”). Whole raw eggs are covered with lime juice and stored in the refrigerator for two weeks while the lime juice “cooks” the eggs. During this time, the shells dissolve and the eggs continue to “cook” in the mixture until turning into a translucent white liquid. This liquid is strained through a fine sieve and combined with mango puree, mango liqueur and Pisco brandy from Peru.
For Ecco, part of the Fifth Group Restaurants portfolio, drinks are typically named for ingredients or perhaps the action that may result from its consumption. A wintertime cocktail called The Caroler is a “well-endowed hot cocoa” that has been known to send guests roving the streets humming favorite holiday melodies, while the Gingerberis Maximus is a Latin take on the generous splash of piquant Modern Spirits Ginger vodka. The Port-O-Call, the only drink on the menu that utilizes wine, is a complex combination of grapefruit-honey vodka and ruby port.
Ecco’s Beverage Director Vajra Stratigos also likes to honor the greats. The restaurant’s Sir Edward Hamilton cocktail pays respect to the rum guru that introduced sugar cane juice spirits to the United States as a connoisseur’s beverage.
Putting Fresh to the Test
With a high demand for seasonal ingredients on restaurant menus, the same expectations are now common for the cocktail menus as well. According to Smith, fresh ingredients can make a very noticeable difference, even in a drink as simple as a screwdriver. “You absolutely have to use fresh lime juice in a Pisco Sour,” he says. “It makes a huge difference and so do the correct proportions.”
Ingredients can also be rooted in the restaurant’s culinary tradition, such as Silk’s featuring shiso leaves (also known as Japanese basil) instead of the traditional mint leaves in its raspberry shiso mojito.
Silk’s sake caipirinha, a drink introduced by the Brazilian American Chamber of Commerce, was a trendy drink in San Paola last summer and now Smith has made it a refreshing change of pace here in Atlanta by offering the cocktail in different fruit flavors such as kiwi, raspberry and strawberry. The bar “juices to order” and changes the flavors as different fruits come in season. Unlike traditional caipirinhas that are almost entirely alcohol, this twist uses sake instead, which results in lower alcohol content and a more refreshing edge when combined with the fresh muddled fruit.
Wowing guests is one benefit of original and fresh cocktail ingredients, but Stratigos acknowledges that it’s not feasible for a restaurant to go overboard with fussy components. “We recognize that Ecco is a high volume restaurant,” he explains. “We are trying to bridge the gab between the kitchen and the bar, so most ingredients utilize a kitchen component.”
Stir Things Up or Stick to the Classics?
Georgia restaurants are finding subtle ways to honor the old but bring in the new.
A fun twist on a French classic at Silk is La Vie en Rose (“life in pink”) � a classic French 75 prepared with Mo�t et Chandon Brut Ros�, Van Gogh gin, fresh raspberries, fresh lemon juice, sugar cane syrup and crushed ice.
At Ecco, Stratigos wanted to find a way to soften bourbon and make it more feminine. He accomplished this by turning the traditional Manhattan into the restaurant’s El Gravitizer by adding imported Amarena cherries to Woodford Reserve bourbon for a taste of Kentucky-meets-Italy. “The intensity of the cherries balances out the woodiness of the bourbon,” he says.
Garnishes: Glorified or Gratifying?
Sometimes a simple garnish gives way to a memorable moniker. Bonefish Grill, a seafood restaurant new to Johns Creek, created the Icicle Aphrodisiac, which features Skyy Vanilla vodka and passion fruit nectar adorned with a watermelon icicle that is created with a combination of fresh watermelon puree and a hint of Monin watermelon syrup. A cinnamon stick serves as the “handle” of the watermelon popsicle. Bonefish Grill’s beverage department and Patrick Henry Creative Promotions came together to create this chilly concoction, and it paid off. Last year, as a company, Bonefish Grill sold about 100,000 of these cocktails.
“Our guests really enjoy the interaction with the Icicle Aphrodisiac,” says David Harrell, Director of Beverage. “The color, scent, taste and chilly temperature make it appealing on many levels. The drink is truly an ‘inside-out’ cocktail. As the watermelon icicle begins to melt, it infuses the beverage with a shot of color and additional flavor,” he explains.
Frozen grapes can serve double duty as a garnish that keeps the cocktail colder for longer. This technique can be found in drinks at Silk and also in the signature martini at ONE.midtown kitchen.
Ecco tops off its Bloody Mary with French smoked sea salt on the glass rim and a skewer of pickled vegetables for a “natural graduation of the drink,” says Stratigos. The pickled vegetables include okra, red carrots, turnips and pan seared cauliflower that’s put through four different brining baths. The same theory is applied to The Gibson cocktail, which is garnished with house-pickled cipollini onions that complement the drink’s earthy truffle vodka.
“The matter of allure and intrigue comes into play when we tell our customers that we make our garnishes in the restaurant,” says Stratigos. “This is when the impression is made. We want to make sure that our beverage program as a whole is consistent every time.”
Georgia restaurateurs have found a way to make their bottom line easier to swallow by mixing things up for guests.
McCall Mastroianni works for Melissa Libby & Associates, a PR firm with several restaurants among its clients. She can be reached at (404) 816-3068.
A man of uncommon honesty, when asked what got him into winemaking Marco Caprai responds, “Twenty years ago my family said to me, “OK Marco, it’s time that you made something of good. What do you want to do? Textile? Fashion?’” In other words, it was deemed time for Marco to join the very successful family business. But Caprai followed his passion and suggested that he head up the family wine estate instead. In 1989 at age 21 he took charge of Arnaldo Caprai. Since then he’s done more than transform the family hobby into a successful business: He is the undisputed leader in the production of Sagrantino di Montefalco wines.
In the world marketplace, Italy’s Umbria region has long been overshadowed by Tuscany. Sagrantino, Caprai believes, could change that. The grape is genetically unique and indigenous to the Montefalco district of Umbria; the first written mention of it is dated 1598. From the outset, Caprai chose to focus on his home’s native grape because “this is my story,” he says, revealing that he respects tradition even while striving for innovation.
Since 1990 Caprai has conducted extensive research and experimentation in his vineyard and cellar with help from the University of Milan. He’s tried different trellis systems, vine protection processes like the reduced use of nitrogen fertilizers, and clone varietals�three of which he has patented. His goal isn’t to find one ideal clone; when making wine he prefers to blend several: “Each one gives the wine a different characteristic. If we use only one genotype, we have a one-dimensional wine. A group [of clones] gives bouquet, a different characteristic.” He’s also producing plants from seeds instead of relying on grafts, a strategy to improve the overall genetic diversity of crops. Testing vine growing location and density, he’s squeezing in 120 more vines per acre than his neighboring vintners.
Caprai is also revolutionizing the marketplace. In 2000 he was the first to bottle a wine exclusively for Internet sales. And in 2006 his became the first winery in the world to use a smart cork, which features a microchip embedded into a synthetic cork that allows access via a handheld reader to information about the wine, including recipes. The chip uses Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) technology. While he used it on a limited edition wine, Caprai predicts the application will soon become mainstream.
A college degree in political science may not come in handy for all winemakers, but for Caprai it has proven invaluable. To protect the integrity of the grapes, its wines and the appellation, Caprai petitioned for a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designation, a level reserved for a small group of high quality wine regions�currently 35 in all of Italy, two of which happen to be in Umbria�that are held to the strictest government standards to produce the highest quality level of Italian wines. “Now the Italian government gave us exclusivity for Italy,” he says of the successful bid to reserve the Sagrantino name for use on labels solely by wine producers in Montefalco. Caprai considers the Italian law that he spearheaded a victory to preserve his region’s historic legacy: Producers in other appellations “can plant, but they can’t use the name. For us the problem is [if others use] the name because it is our brand.”
Of course, such a move is justified now that producers�with Caprai at the forefront�are producing elegant wines from Sagrantino. The thick-skinned grape is high in sugar and acidity and has “the highest levels of polyphenol of any grape in existence,” Caprai says. In skilled hands, the resulting strong-structured, food-friendly and complex wines can range from powerful dry to intense sweet reds.
Caprai’s current production is 750,000 bottles a year from vines that are planted on 336 of the estate’s total 388 acres�figures that reflect significant growth. In 1988, when Marco took over, the 145-acre estate produced 300,000 bottles. The first land purchased in 1971 was just 7.5 acres.
Among Caprai’s numerous awards are Slow Food’s Winery of the Year 2006, Oscar of Wine as Best Producer by the Italian Sommelier Association, and International Award Vinitaly. “We are very proud of Caprai,” says Maria Rita Lorenzetti, President of the Umbria Region. “Wine is very connected with the region of Umbria.” With Marco Caprai as its champion, Sagrantino di Montefalco is fast becoming the world’s next cult wine.
Behind the Bottle reveals the human spirit driving production of the world’s finest alcoholic beverages. Send comments to hopesp95@yahoo.com.
Training your employees is the most efficient way to see a return on your profits and investments. Whether its food, booze, service or answering the phone, all staffs can better themselves and your establishment with knowledge. Daily training on the small stuff is the easiest way to avoid the big stuff.
Cover the basics-yeah, I know, “Duh!,” but it’s easy to take too much for granted. Explain incorporating air into wine and examining its color. Demonstrate what could happen if a server used his or her right hand to pour wine from the guest’s left, or why to wipe the lip of the bottle before pouring.
Be redundant. Every time we taste we cover the same things about each wine: tasting profile, origin and fit. The tasting profile can be vast or miniscule, but I like the basics: Is the wine light, medium or full-bodied? Does the wine taste of fruits or earth? What kind of fruit? What foods pair with the wine? Consistency is key. With origin we look to know where the wine is from, how produced, or some quirky detail about the winery or producer. These things help understand why the wine tastes as it does and of course give selling points. Many more bottles have been sold because of the story behind it than the juice in it. Where does it fit in your program? Is it great with swordfish? Making sense of your thinking on the wine helps the staff feel “in the know.”
Compare the wines. Put a 100 percent maloactic Napa Chardonnay with new oak next to Chablis. One smells of mango and lemon cream pie tossed with buttered popcorn, and one smells like lemon zest picked from a chalky oyster bed. Before the comparison how many employees thought the Chablis was full-bodied or the Napa chard was really acidic? It’s going to cost you dollars to try the wines, but familiarity builds confidence and knowledge. Besides, the Help Wanted ads start at $35 per day and the Chablis costs $15.
Test the employees in writing and in a restaurant setting. Put together ten situations or wine questions and set a table for pre-shift. Pull the questions from a hat and act them out with timing and accuracy. Use examples from the last month on the floor and mistakes from times past. Just remember, luck is when preparation meets opportunity!
Heath Porter is Sommelier at The Cloister on Sea Island. He won Best Young Sommelier Hawaii 2004 and holds an Introductory Certificate in the Court of Master Sommeliers 2004.
July/August 2007Corporate Beverage Director InterContinental Hotels GroupBy Lucinda Anderson HughesJames Beard awards. DiRoNa accolades. Five star cuisines. These boast of a restaurant’s ability to offer a stellar dining experience but what about all the great liquids paired with that food? At the InterContinental Hotels Group, that responsibility falls in part to Rene Van Camp, Corporate Beverage Director for The Americas. Restaurant Forum caught up with the 30-year-old Van Camp to learn more about him, his views on beverages and his executive office lifestyle.Restaurant Forum: When did you start with the InterContinental Hotels Group?Rene Van Camp: I started as a banquet manager in Paris. The hotel closed for renovations and I was transferred to New York City. I became restaurant manager at the InterContinental Barclay on 48th Street. My second day was September 11th, 2001. I had only seen New York City as a tourist and for the interview. Luckily, I’d seen the Twin Towers.RF: How did you recover from that?RVC: I won a scholarship from a hotel school in Netherlands. I’m a native of Holland. A former professor called and asked if I wanted to participate. I got a full ride on a MBA, so I went for nine months and finished all the classes and exams. Then I returned to New York City. I wrote my thesis in New York after work. Then I was offered to be a part of the opening of the new Atlanta InterContinental in Buckhead. This is the best experience I’ve had so far.RF: What were your original career goals? RVC: I always wanted to be in the hotel business. I wanted to be a chef from very young. I got a Bachelor’s degree in hospitality management. I worked for a hotel and my goal was to become a general manager of a hotel. I went through Food and Beverage departments to accomplish this. Now that I’m in a much more strategic role in corporate, I’m not sure if I want to go back to become a general manager or stay in development. I really enjoy what I’m doing right now.RF: What are the big differences being in corporate versus the hotel staff?RVC: The biggest difference is not having guests and a lot of employees in the corporate office. I’m now in a multi-unit situation. It used to be one hotel and now there are five brands.RF: What are your primary responsibilities?RVC: I deal with the marketing of beverages and provide operational support to the hotels in North America, Middle and South Americas. I come up with corporate strategy to grow revenues and profitability with beverages. I’m responsible for selecting the products that we carry on the wine list across the brands.RF: How many languages do you speak? RVC: Four fluently: Dutch, German, French and English. I also understand Swedish, Danish, Spanish. We sell service. To have a customer express their needs in their own language and the (hospitality) person can understand and reply to their needs, it’s a great thing.RF: How do you attract consumers to the hotel bar?RVC: I asked Francesco Lafranconi, master mixologist and Director of Mixology for Southern Wine and Spirits, to come up with cool cocktails. He came up with everything fresh. This stands out in Boston where bartending is much more traditional. Just like chefs don’t take out powders and mixes, why would we let that happen at the bar? We do it ourselves. The quality is so high, the drinks are so good and the prices are same as everywhere else.Also through concept bars. We have the XO Bar in InterContinental Buckhead, that specializes in XO cognacs with over 96 XOs, it’s the largest selection of XO in the U.S. Sushi Teq in Boston’s InterContinental is a tequila bar that serves fresh sushi over 62 different classifications of tequila exist and we serve them all. In Boston there’s Rumba, serving 75 different rums.RF: Any tips for selling non-alcoholic beverages?RVC: When someone says, “I’ll have water,” detail the preparation of your iced tea. Tell them how it’s prepared by the chef. For water, don’t ask “bottled or tap” they’ll say tap. Instead, approach the table with bottles of sparkling and still and then lots of time they will choose one over tap.
There’s no question about it, tea is hot. From the Ritz to the grocery store, people are showing up for a cup or a bottle of tea. Other than water, tea is the most consumed beverage in the world. People are drinking tea as if it is the newest drink in town. On the contrary, tea has been enjoyed since 300 C.E. or, if you believe the legend, since about 3000 BCE when the mythical leader, Shen Nong, first tasted this most beloved of beverages.
The history of tea, as a meal and a social occasion is much more recent, dating back to the early 19th Century when Anna Maria Stanhope, Duchess of Bedford (and wife of the seventh duke) apparently often experienced what was commonly called “a sinking feeling” between lunch and the evening meal. Thinking that a little sustenance might help, she began drinking tea and nibbling small savory treats in the late afternoon. Soon her friends joined her and the idea spread throughout the aristocracy, then onto the commoners as well. Eventually, everybody in England, from the prince to the pauper, stopped what they were doing in the late of the afternoon to enjoy a cup of tea and a bite to eat.
Tea time was different, of course, for different folks and the designations of “high tea” and “low tea” eventually evolved in Britain. The original terms meant quite the opposite to how we use them in the United States today. We associate “high tea” with high society and put out a spread fit for a queen. Originally, though, high tea was a term used to describe less of a social occasion and more of a family meal. Low tea was actually the high falutin feast. Low tea was served to guests in a formal room. Everyone sat in armchairs or sofas and tea and fancy tidbits were served on a low table beside them. The food served was bite sized for ease of eating. Thus the term “low” tea originated from the height of the low table on which it was served.
High tea was generally served at a (high) kitchen table with a full place setting around 5:30 or 6 p.m. when workers returned from the fields and children came home from school. High tea, sometimes called “meat tea” included savory meats, soups, puddings and sweets and lots of robust tea.
Whether you take it high or low, with a hearty meat sandwich or a delicate shortbread cookie, tea is gaining in popularity throughout our state. While “tea” to southerners used to mean a glass of instant powder mixed with water and enough sugar to hold a spoon upright, our taste for this “dew of heaven” (as Lu-Yu, the eighth century tea master called it) has evolved into something a little more sophisticated and today connoisseurs are calling for the finest teas from around the world.
Like the Duchess of Bedford, many of us suffer from a “sinking spell” during the middle of the afternoon and, like the Duchess, many of us benefit greatly from a “spot of tea.” The idea for stopping for a cup, bottle, or glass of tea in the middle of the afternoon may seem a bit archaic to fast paced American “type A” businessmen, soccer Moms and students who are more accustomed to chugging down coffee or sodas to keep the energy level up, but, once initiated into a routine, it becomes a much anticipated part of the afternoon. Just stopping for a few moments (to do anything!) is beneficial all in itself but stopping to fix a cup of tea, sitting down to sip and actually taste what you’re drinking brings on a whole new wave of benefits.
The idea of Tea, as a meal, occasion and an opportunity to get together with friends is also becoming more and more enticing, evidenced by the number of restaurants throughout the state which offer such a meal. The Tea Guide, an online tea room directory, lists 63 restaurants and tea houses in the state of Georgia which offer or specialize in tea the drink and tea the meal
The most well known afternoon tea events are produced and directed by the Ritz Carlton hotels. Sandra Ryder, Area Director for Public Relations for the Ritz Carlton, says that tea is served in the English tradition and is steeped in individual teapots at the guests’ table, then poured through a sterling silver strainer into Wedgwood teacups.
“Afternoon tea is not fast food,” she says. “You just cannot sip tea quickly.”
The slow pace of the meal lends itself to a feeling of elegance and indulgence. The Ritz and other restaurants have found that creating the right ambiance is as essential to the enjoyment of tea as the drink itself. At the Buckhead Ritz, wood paneled walls, hand-woven rugs and fine art make it look more like the living room of an elegant, private home than a commercial space.
Guests respond in kind. “Our guests tend to dress up a bit for tea,” says Ryder. “I think it is all a part of enjoying lovely moments.”
At many restaurants, the food served at afternoon tea combines tradition with current trends. The old-fashioned cucumber sandwiches on white bread with the crusts cut off are now served side by side with such trendy favorites as cumin-lime marinated shrimp and smoked salmon and asparagus. The plain scones of yesteryears are now updated with blueberries and ginger.
The kinds of teas served have changed over the years as well. Before World War II, 40 percent of the tea drunk in the United States was green tea. With supplies from Japan and China interrupted by the War, tea drinkers in the U.S. switched allegiance to India black teas. This trend has only recently begun to reverse again, as a result of much publicity over the health benefits of drinking green tea.
“Interest in varieties of teas has certainly grown; we added green teas and tisanes (which are not actually teas but infusions of fruits and herbs) several years ago,” says Ryder. “In spite of it all, though, Earl Grey continues to be the most popular.”
Tea is a fascinating combination of trend and tradition. There is an aura about tea and the serving of tea that is only rivaled, perhaps, by the serving of wine. To sit and sip a cup of tea, whether amid the elegance of the Ritz or the more mundane surroundings of your own office, or anywhere in between, is to connect with thousands of years of history and millions of people across the globe who delight in the taste of tea.
Laura C. Martin is the author of the new book, Tea: The Drink That Changed the World
TEA: The Drink That Changed the World
For more than two thousand years, tea has calmed us and awoken us, fascinated us and driven us. After water, it is the second most popular drink in the world! How has this simple brew made such a profound impact on so many people and places, regardless of whether or not we drink it?
Tea: The Drink That Changed the World is an engaging and offbeat exploration of the rise of tea around the world. From a harsh, bitter concoction originally used for medicinal purposes to its rise to global power and impact on the world today, this simple leaf is anything but simple. Tea has served as a meditation tool, a form of currency, and a motivation for political change. It has touched our lives like no other beverage, connecting us all�from the Mongols to the monks, from the pluckers to the emperors, to the harried modern-day person looking for a moment of calm. A timely look at the history of this seemingly innocuous beverage, Tea: The Drink That Changed the World is a fascinating account, full of anecdotes and practical information on a drink enjoyed by billions the world over.
About the Author
Laura C. Martin is an award-winning author of more than twenty books on gardening, nature and crafts. She is currently garden editor for Georgia Magazine, and has written for publications ranging from American Horticulturist to Better Homes & Gardens. She lives in Atlanta, Georgia.
Popular Non-Alcoholic Beverage Options
Tea is not alone in gaining popularity in the beverage world. Although carbonated soft drinks still dominate the U.S. beverage market, change is in the air � or perhaps in the teacup. With consumers more eager to make choices based on health and nutrition, non-alcoholic beverages are quickly gaining in popularity.
“The liquid refreshment beverage market is being driven by the health and wellness trend,” says Michael Bellas, Chairman and Chief Executive of Beverage Marketing Corporation.
One example of this is the sale of energy drinks in the U.S., which grew by 50 percent during 2006. The sale of bottled water grew by 10 percent.
The greatest trends see an increase in healthy, natural, single portion drinks. The interest in “buying healthy” includes buying organic products and buying the so called “superfruits” such as pomegranate and cranberries, which are full of antioxidants.
Tea, particularly in the one serving bottle, is rapidly gaining in popularity. Tea not only has the desired antioxidants, it also has fewer calories. (Of course, loaded with sugar or other sweeteners, tea can be just as expensive in calories as fruit juice or other sweet drinks.)
After working as a bartender for eight years, Eric Simpkins came to realize that he’d found a career and not just a job. So, he enrolled in the French Culinary Institute in New York to prepare for serious work. But a funny thing happened after graduation. Simpkins found he was able to put his training to use not just in a kitchen, but back behind the bar.
Neo Restaurant’s Chef Eric Chopin with Roland Biron, Director of Sales & Marketing for The Mansion on Peachtree. 
Viña Ventisqueros’ Jaime Merino, Felipe Tosso, Facundo Porolli, and Ophelia Santos 
t go well together.
A man of uncommon honesty, when asked what got him into winemaking Marco Caprai responds, “Twenty years ago my family said to me, “OK Marco, it’s time that you made something of good. What do you want to do? Textile? Fashion?’” In other words, it was deemed time for Marco to join the very successful family business. But Caprai followed his passion and suggested that he head up the family wine estate instead. In 1989 at age 21 he took charge of Arnaldo Caprai. Since then he’s done more than transform the family hobby into a successful business: He is the undisputed leader in the production of Sagrantino di Montefalco wines.
Cover the basics-yeah, I know, “Duh!,” but it’s easy to take too much for granted. Explain incorporating air into wine and examining its color. Demonstrate what could happen if a server used his or her right hand to pour wine from the guest’s left, or why to wipe the lip of the bottle before pouring.
James Beard awards. DiRoNa accolades. Five star cuisines. These boast of a restaurant’s ability to offer a stellar dining experience but what about all the great liquids paired with that food? At the InterContinental Hotels Group, that responsibility falls in part to Rene Van Camp, Corporate Beverage Director for The Americas. Restaurant Forum caught up with the 30-year-old Van Camp to learn more about him, his views on beverages and his executive office lifestyle.Restaurant Forum: When did you start with the InterContinental Hotels Group?Rene Van Camp: I started as a banquet manager in Paris. The hotel closed for renovations and I was transferred to New York City. I became restaurant manager at the InterContinental Barclay on 48th Street. My second day was September 11th, 2001. I had only seen New York City as a tourist and for the interview. Luckily, I’d seen the Twin Towers.RF: How did you recover from that?RVC: I won a scholarship from a hotel school in Netherlands. I’m a native of Holland. A former professor called and asked if I wanted to participate. I got a full ride on a MBA, so I went for nine months and finished all the classes and exams. Then I returned to New York City. I wrote my thesis in New York after work. Then I was offered to be a part of the opening of the new Atlanta InterContinental in Buckhead. This is the best experience I’ve had so far.RF: What were your original career goals? RVC: I always wanted to be in the hotel business. I wanted to be a chef from very young. I got a Bachelor’s degree in hospitality management. I worked for a hotel and my goal was to become a general manager of a hotel. I went through Food and Beverage departments to accomplish this. Now that I’m in a much more strategic role in corporate, I’m not sure if I want to go back to become a general manager or stay in development. I really enjoy what I’m doing right now.RF: What are the big differences being in corporate versus the hotel staff?RVC: The biggest difference is not having guests and a lot of employees in the corporate office. I’m now in a multi-unit situation. It used to be one hotel and now there are five brands.RF: What are your primary responsibilities?RVC: I deal with the marketing of beverages and provide operational support to the hotels in North America, Middle and South Americas. I come up with corporate strategy to grow revenues and profitability with beverages. I’m responsible for selecting the products that we carry on the wine list across the brands.RF: How many languages do you speak? RVC: Four fluently: Dutch, German, French and English. I also understand Swedish, Danish, Spanish. We sell service. To have a customer express their needs in their own language and the (hospitality) person can understand and reply to their needs, it’s a great thing.RF: How do you attract consumers to the hotel bar?RVC: I asked Francesco Lafranconi, master mixologist and Director of Mixology for Southern Wine and Spirits, to come up with cool cocktails. He came up with everything fresh. This stands out in Boston where bartending is much more traditional. Just like chefs don’t take out powders and mixes, why would we let that happen at the bar? We do it ourselves. The quality is so high, the drinks are so good and the prices are same as everywhere else.Also through concept bars. We have the XO Bar in InterContinental Buckhead, that specializes in XO cognacs with over 96 XOs, it’s the largest selection of XO in the U.S. Sushi Teq in Boston’s InterContinental is a tequila bar that serves fresh sushi over 62 different classifications of tequila exist and we serve them all. In Boston there’s Rumba, serving 75 different rums.RF: Any tips for selling non-alcoholic beverages?RVC: When someone says, “I’ll have water,” detail the preparation of your iced tea. Tell them how it’s prepared by the chef. For water, don’t ask “bottled or tap” they’ll say tap. Instead, approach the table with bottles of sparkling and still and then lots of time they will choose one over tap.
