Longtime Atlanta restaurateur Barry Mills, founder of the now-closed FLIP Burger Boutique and current owner of Big B’s Fish Joint in Sandy Springs, opened his latest restaurant Steak & Grace on Friday, March 14, in Dunwoody Village, adding to a growing arsenal of chef-driven fire power outside the perimeter.
Mills joins other Atlanta restaurateurs who have ventured to Dunwoody with their restaurant concepts, including Ford Fry with a Superica location at Ashford Lane; Chef Pat Pascarella with his outpost of Grana, also at Ashford Lane; Billy Kramer’s NFA Burger in Dunwoody Village; and David Abes, who operates a number of concepts, including Bar{n} and Morty’s Meat & Supply, around a courtyard in Dunwoody Village that he calls “FUNWOODY.”.
Mills’ restaurant, Steak & Grace, is being promoted as a steakhouse, but the operators plan to offer the traditional steakhouse experience in a more approachable atmosphere. Executive chef Conor O’Reilly, formerly with Fifth Group Restaurants, helms the kitchen, favoring composed plates (like Faroe Island salmon prepared Hong Kong-style with baby bok choy and winter citrus) over the a la carte approach to protein and side dishes presented at many steakhouses.
“Our goal is for guests to experience elements of fine dining while still feeling relaxed,” says Mills.
The restaurant’s design scheme features an open floor plan that allows for a more social and casual atmosphere. Rather than the traditional dim lighting and moody color palette that often adorn steakhouse environs, Mills has opted for lighter hues, lots of windows, whimsical touches, and a large patio with an outdoor fireplace. Guests can expect upbeat music and a relaxed ambiance throughout the 3,500-square-foot space.
When asked why he is still marketing the restaurant as a steakhouse, rather than just a chef-driven restaurant, Mills said, “For me, it’s important that my restaurants have an identity that relates to a specific food type or preparation. I think it’s a bit stickier in people’s minds than a restaurant name that is non-specific.”
He said that after the initial concept of Steak & Grace was formed, he and his team did a lot of research into where the steak market is going. He found that there was room in the steakhouse world for smaller cuts of meat, more alternative proteins, and a less masculine vibe. He says he looked at what the Dunwoody community lacked in that location, and asked himself, “How can we create something that is traditional enough that it’s easy to understand but has some twists and turns to keep it interesting and noteworthy?”
“There are a number of very traditional, popular, upscale steak houses in the Perimeter area. We didn’t want to compete with them. Also, we were going into a neighborhood. To me, that means we needed to be a bit more approachable and casual, have a bit more on our menu than just steaks, and be a bit more affordable so that people can frequent us more often and make us a regular spot on their rotation.”
When asked about the appeal of Dunwoody, Mills said, “I cannot speak for others, but I like the ‘small town’ community feel. It has a nice close-knit community which gives us an opportunity to create a long-term relationship with lots of potential regulars. I believe that kind of community environment gives a restaurant more staying power beyond the typical 5-10 year time frame. It’s a more relationship-based business and relies less on food trends and/or driving guests in through marketing and tourist traffic.”
His sentiments were echoed by David Abes of DASH Hospitality, who said, “It is a very close-knit community, and people want to stay close to home. All the restaurant owners and operators really pull together and want everyone to be successful.”
Abes added that the support for independent restaurant concepts coming to the suburbs has exceeded his expectations. “Growing up in Dunwoody, I have run into so many people I grew up with, but just as important, how many new people I have met who appreciate what we do to make Dunwoody, FUNWOODY,” he said.
Mills also grew up in the area, and having his other restaurant concept, Big B’s Fish Joint, nearby in Sandy Springs allows him to have a strong built-in customer base nearby.
Abes hosts lots of events to get people together in the community, including concerts on the courtyard, sporting events on the big screen, and a signature event that raises money for Type 1 Diabetes research: Green Eggs and Kegs. Chefs from 30 local restaurants come out to cook on Big Green Eggs, and over 30 breweries participate as well. This year’s event, scheduled for April 26, is expected to draw over 3,000 attendees.
“FUNWOODY is about community. This is the heart of Dunwoody where everyone comes together,” Abes said. Mills had the same feelings about Steak & Grace. “Above all, Steak & Grace is a neighborhood gathering place. We are excited to bring a restaurant with broad appeal to Dunwoody,” says Mills. “We invite guests to come for a quality meal and a warm, welcoming vibe, but leave the coat and tie at home.”
